Day Two — Wuling Farm

I’m really falling behind in my blogging. Ever since I got the car I just don’t seem to have any spare time for it. And I’m afraid things will get much worse, since from next week I’ll be starting a distance learning program to finally finish my Bachelor’s Degree. So even though this trip was more than a month ago, the ‘rents are already back in the States and I have four newer outings to report, I present to you day two of the spectacular cross-Taiwan tour with the ‘rents.

After spending the morning in Sanxia looking at the old temple, we hit the road and headed east across the northern tip of Taiwan. Once over the mountains (or through, I should say, as there was an extensive tunnel system), we headed south and then west, curving back up into the mountains from the East coast.

It was a seven hour drive to our next stop, Wuling Farm. I didn’t really know what to expect at Wuling, but I knew it had a nice campground with stunning views and at least a few decent hikes in the area. The drive was pleasant, but we got socked in by fog after a few hours. Who knows what spectacular views we missed along the way.

Once in Wuling, we were appalled to see hordes of tourists and tour buses. However, even though for some strange reason the tour buses dropped the herds off at the campground for a quick look around, after their  fifteen minute stop the campground was largely empty. We rented little pre-set tents arrayed on a hillside surrounded by beautiful mountains.

We spent two nights there, using the days to walk around the surrounding area and take a short hike up to a waterfall. Wuling was a beautiful place, and I hope to be back in the future to go on some of the longer hikes.

Stopping for a rest on the drive to Wuling. The mountains here were still fairly small, but we would eventually hit 9,000+ feet.

Most of the drive followed along this wide riverbed, which was lined with strange, dusty farmland. We couldn’t figure out what they were trying to grow.

The “tents” at Wuling Campground. This shot looks back towards the office and parking lot. We stayed as far away as possible, at the end of the rows of 30 tents. Though it was cloudy for most of the stay, we were treated with this crystal clear view on our last morning.

Mom pokes her head out her tent. The ‘rents stayed in #27, and Nok and I stayed next door in 29. Crazily enough, renting these tents was more expensive than any hotel we stayed in during the entire trip.

When we woke up on the last morning and poked our heads out of the tent, this was our glorious view. This shot was literally taken from the entrance of the tent.

After arriving on the first night, we went for a walk around the campground. The campground is also the starting point for a two day hike up one of Taiwan’s tallest mountains, Snow Mountain. Obviously, we didn’t make it that far, but maybe next time.

Also on the first walk, we headed up this wooden walkway. The walkway was covered with what appeared to hordes of gobs of poop. Yet, the poop was all over the railings, too. What could possibly have done it?

We soon discovered the poop-culprits. Look closely at the trees beyond the fence, and you’ll see our very first Taiwan Monkey sighting. Actually, as we approached we’d seen at least four-five monkeys standing on this platform, but they ran away before we could get a picture.

Mom and Nok act out what will happen if a monkey attacks.

On the walk back to the campground. The whole time, Scroggins kept eating things he found on the trail. Little did we know, monkey poop is a tasty treat for dogs.

We came across a little pond during our walk with this sign of a guy enjoying a swim. But in spite of the Engrish, we eventually figured out that the sign was a warning and not an invitation to have a swim.

Dad and I came across this giant moth while walking to the camp store to buy some water. It was easily the size of my hand.

Later that night, we found this giant bug on the path to the bathroom. It was a good four inches long. Note the giant pinchers and fully functional wings. Imagine this beast flying at you from the dark!

Dinner time!  We had mistakenly planned on the campground having a restaurant, and as a result we brought no food on the trip. Not only did the campground not have a restaurant, but in addition the shop only sold instant noodles and canned mystery meats. Still, Nok did her best with the available supplies and managed to cook up a pretty tasty feast complete with what we later learned to be canned eel.

After dinner, Dad and I talked while Nok tried to make a fire. Unfortunately, because of the day’s rain she was not successful. Next up: the hike to the waterfall.

Day One - Sanxia

Probably the least interesting part of our trip was the first night and day. Since the ‘rents had arrived in the evening, I thought it would be best to spend the first night somewhere near the airport. Actually, originally I had planned on returning to my home in Fengyuan, then heading straight across the mountains on the Central Cross-Mountain Highway to Wuling and Taroko.

Sadly, I discovered the day before they arrived that the highway has been closed for nearly 10 years. It was closed after the major 921 Earthquake in 1999, and though they attempted to rebuild it, they finally gave up a few years ago. Too many typhoons and earthquakes to keep that treacherous road operable.

So in the end, I settled on a different route that included stopping in the small city of Sanxia for the first night. I knew nothing about Sanxia, only that it had been recommended by some other expats as a good first night stop. It is apparently famous for its “old street,” a stretch of road lined with hundreds of really old, brick buildings and shops. When we arrived in the evening, everything was already closed on the street, and then again the next morning when we came back for a second look.

The second main attraction in Sanxia is a big, old temple that has been under construction for 60 years and is still at least 10 years from completion. It was an interesting temple, but I have to say nothing special for Taiwan. There are temples like it everywhere.

Still, Sanxia was an okay place to spend one night before we headed to the beautiful mountains.

The Old Street at night. In spite of the blurriness, I think this is a great picture. Mom, Nok and I can be seen on the left.

After walking through the old street, we stopped for dinner at this little restaurant. Nok and I really don’t care for most Taiwanese food, but this place is one of the only exceptions. We just call it “boiled food,” because we don’t know what else to say. But it consists of choosing meat, vegetables and tofu from an open cooler, which is then boiled and served in a tasty sauce. Sadly, we have no pictures of the feast.

The old street by day, but too early for anything to be open.

A market popped up on the street below Mom and Dad’s hotel room the next morning. Actually, it was a pretty grimy neighborhood and I’m sorry it had to be the ‘rents’ first impression of Taiwan.

These strange beasts were for sale in the market. I think they are eels. Actually, we may have inadvertently eaten eel later in the trip, but that’s another story.

On a foot bridge near the old temple. I guess Mom loves taking pictures of bridges.

The old temple. It was pretty big. Once inside, we met an old man who claimed to be the son-in-law of the architect. He showed us around and pointed out the intricate woodworking inside. At the end, he produced a paper that read in bold letters, “Support Taiwan for the UN.” We thought he was after cash, but turns out he was just a nice old man who loved his country.

The beautifully carved and painted roof of the temple was also lined with a lovely green moss.

Though difficult to see in this picture, the inside of the temple was covered with elaborately carved wooden spirals and images.

The smoky temple was also filled with strange little shrines like this. I don’t really know what it was for, but I don’t think this temple was Buddhist.

From the second floor of the temple.

Dad leaves the temple. From here it was a seven hour drive up into the mountains, to the beautiful Wuling Farm Campground.

Another Video from Angkor

Screaming Bugs at Angkor

All throughout the temples of Angkor, there was some sort of screaming insect in the trees. We didn’t see any, but this video gives you an idea of the sound we were constantly surrounded with.

Tonlé Sap, Cambodia

After spending a day wandering around the temples of Angkor Wat, the ‘rents and Nok and I spent the next morning exploring a massive freshwater lake called Tonlé Sap.  The lake is just 10 or so kilometers away from Siem Reap and was just a quick ride on a tuk-tuk.

Apparently there is some sort of floating village in the middle of the lake which is a popular destination for tourists.  However, we were in no mood to pay loads of cash just to see a phony tourist village, and instead walked around ourselves to see the real deal.  The difference between Siem Reap and this lake village was astounding.  Siem Reap has seen a massive influx of foreign tourists in the last ten years or so, and as a result it is quite a prosperous place.  It’s a clean, quiet town with loads of five star hotels, a brand new international hospital and an international airport.

But just a few miles down the road, the reality of the harshness of life in Cambodia becomes evident.  Dirt roads, tiny shacks and begging children are the norm in Cambodia, and it is hard not to be moved by the people’s resilience in the face of such poverty.  We were greeted with smiles and hellos almost everywhere we went, no less in the poorest little village than in the shiny tourist haven of Siem Reap.

After spending an hour or so walking around the lake village, we hopped in our taxi and made the five hour trip back to Thailand.  In Thailand, we arrived just in time for the annual Loy Kratong Festival, which I will write about later.

A shot of the rents in the tuk-tuk, on the way to the lake.  It was pretty cramped with four people in the back of one small motorcycle buggy.

This was taken on top of a big hill just next to the lake.  You can see the lake stretching out into the distance.  It looked like more of a swamp in places.

Nok makes a new friend.

A view of the lake.  After coming down from the hill, we walked through the little village on the left.

Nok and the ‘rents take in the view.  It was pretty stinkin’ hot that day.

Walking back down the stairs.

This kid found Mom and Dad to be incredibly fascinating.  I guess he was confused about their names though, because he just kept saying “One dollar! One dollar!” over and over again.  I’ve always disagreed with the idea of giving money to begging children, so Nok gave him some orange juice instead.

Taken on the other end of the village.  The hill in the background is the one we had climbed earlier.

A shot of the hero and his mother.  My collar is up because I know how incredibly cool I look, not because I forgot to put on sunblock in the scorching sun.

A closeup of the lake.  There were little huts even out in the middle, accessible only by boat or a swim.

Angkor II

By far the most interesting part of our trip to Angkor Wat was what we found in the smaller city, Angkor Thom. There we found an enormous structure that was partially overgrown by jungle. There were massive trees growing over the walls and through the roofs. Mom was in a frenzy trying to photograph every giant temple-killing tree she saw, but after the first five or six she realized it was a futile endeavor.

Standing in the outer layer of one of the massive temple complexes. This one appeared to be an entire city, not just a temple. Mom had a book filled with loads of historical information, but I wouldn’t let her open it.

 

A shot from on top of the rubble. A large portion of the complex had caved in, and in spite of the signs saying “No Climbing” I just had to climb up and have a look.

 

 

While Dad and I played camera tag, I couldn’t help but wonder if they knew they were standing under a massive stone ceiling on the verge of collapsing.

 

 

Dad stands in a small alley inspecting the detailed carvings all along the wall. Just beyond him was one of the many empty rain pools, which he and I had conjectured might be “death pits,” only to overhear their true use as rain collection devices from a guide later.

Nok stands next to one of the many giant trees overtaking the temple complex.

The backside of the temple, with another giant tree growing over the wall.

Mom and Dad walking down a path around the outside of the complex. I took this shot through a giant window in the wall, and I don’t think they had seen me yet when this was taken.

Checking their cell phones in an ancient hilltop temple in Cambodia.

What are the odds of that? Micah, I really do take these pictures everywhere I go.

One more for the road.

 

Thanksgiving at Angkor Wat

I first went to Angkor Wat four years ago, during my second tour through Southeast Asia. At that time, I never would have imagined that four years later I’d be back on Thanksgiving day with my parents! It’s really unbelievable, but I have to say I think it’s fantastic. Unfortunately, Mom and Dad are pretty atrocious (Brosius?) about sending updates and even more terrible about sending pictures. So I’ve taken it upon myself to share some details from our excellent trip.

When they came, it was less than two weeks before Nok and I were due to fly to Taiwan. They arrived on Wednesday evening at Bangkok’s new “Suvarna-crappy” Airport. Nok and I picked them up at the airport, then we spent the night at my apartment in Bangkok.

After less than five hours of sleep, we headed out bright and early the next morning on the road to Cambodia. We hopped on a Casino Bus that left from a shopping mall just down the road. People from Bangkok love to flock to the little casino village that’s been built just across the Cambodian border, and everyday the casinos run buses along the four hour route to bring in the gambling addicts.

So, we posed as degenerate gamblers and hopped aboard. Four hours later, we arrived at the border. Poipet is the name of the town on the Cambodian side. It is a pretty horrible place, and even before you leave Thailand you’re immediately attacked by dozens of scummy conmen trying to swindle you out of some cash by “helping” you with your Cambodian visa.

The town itself, like much of Cambodia, is like something out of the wild west. It is completely disorderly and dirty, with bumpy dirt roads full of bicycles, motorcycles, carts and cars. You have the feeling that this place truly is no-man’s land, and almost miss the security of the money-hungry police of Thailand who will at least help you if you bribe them.

Across the border, the ‘rents and Nok and I secured a “taxi” that would take us to Siem Reap, some 170 kilometers down treacherous, crater-hole pocked dirt roads. Mind you, this “road” was a national highway! A trip that on ordinary roads would take two hours took nearly five.

Along the lonely stretches of highway, it was clear why only a few years ago traveling by road was unsafe in Cambodia. Even today, stories of highway bandits and robbers are not unheard of. In fact, when I first went to Cambodia four years ago, I read that it was unsafe to take trains in the country, as they were very often held up and robbed.

But we arrived safely in dengue fever infested Siem Reap and spent a comfortable night in our $8 hotel rooms. And yes, we did pay in US dollars. The Cambodian currency is so devalued that in Cambodia, people can pay with US Dollars, Thai Baht or Cambodian Riel.

The next day we headed for the temple complex, and spent the day riding on a modified motorbike buggy (called a tuk-tuk) exploring the ancient temples of Angkor Wat.

Nok and I standing in front of the main temple of Angkor. This is the largest religious structure in the world, and is still used after almost 900 years.

Nok and the ‘rents standing behind the main temple. Unfortunately, we were unable to go to the top of the temple as they were doing some reconstruction.

Walking towards Bayon temple. On the last trip, this had been my favorite. But there were way too many tourists this time around. Still an interesting place.

Mom and Dad standing under some giant faces. Bayon temple is famous because it’s full of these giant, four-sided faces.

These stairs are much steeper than they look. That’s me in the green.

Dad has a go up the stairs. Not bad for double nickels, eh? There was a wooden set of stairs built up the backside for the sane. That little wooden sign on the bottom there says, “Danger, No Climbing!”

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Well, my internet connection is not working very well at the moment. I can’t upload any more pictures. But this post will continue soon, with pictures from my favorite and definitely the most mysterious temple, Angkor Thom.